What would a true digital Leica M look like

12.08.2017 02:00

```text If one would pick the three most influential camera’s in history, I would say the Leica M3, then the Nikon F4 and last the iPhone. The reason is that the M3 basically invented 35mm photography and how cameras looked and worked up until the SLR; the F4 is the prototype for how SLR’s looked and worked from it was introduced up until today. And nobody thought of phone photography as anything but a gimmick before the iPhone; not the first one though. Probably the 4S? ```

```text Anyways. ```

```text If you look at the Leica M series from the M3 up to the M6, you see a camera that has just what you need to create. Combined with build quality that makes it possible for cameras made in the 1950’s through the 1990’s to still function today. The reason is that Leica continues to service them, and all of their modern M mount lenses are still compatible and neither the batteries nor the film is proprietary. ```

```text There have been a few attempts at making digital Leica M’s- But I’m not convinced that we have seen the first true Leica M. There are a number of reasons for this. Most of all because they are too much like a digital camera and not enough like a true M. ```

```text If you pay $8000 for a camera, then you either expect the best technology on the market or something that is built to last. All analog Leica M’s were expensive new. But that is fine if you can use it for over 60 years when its maintained properly. ```

```text I think that a Leica M digital camera should look and work like a M6, except for the thing that advances the film and the thing you use to rewind it. Those can we just get rid off. But the rest should be the same. ```

```text A ISO dial. ```

```text A shutter speed dial ```

```text You turn it on or off with the shutter speed dial. ```

```text And no screen or additional buttons. ```

```text There should be a “analog” counter like you have on a M6; but it should show how many more pictures there are room for on the SD. And it should use standard batteries you can get in any photo store. ```

```text The view finder should not require any form for batteries, and the only parts that should use battery power is the sensor (when its in use), the light meeter and the counter thing I mentioned above. ```

```text And of course no auto shit; we are talking about a Leica M after all. ```

```text But. If this is a camera that is going to be useful in 20 years, then they need to be clever regarding the sensor. A 24MP Full frame sensor is probably good enough for the nest 5-10 years for most people. But I still think they should be upgradable. Send it in to Leica to get the latest generation “M” sensor in it. Just like a M3 from 1954 can use the latest in 35mm film technology. ```

```text Let Leica be Leica. ```

X-Pro 2

10.08.2017 02:00

```text I have spent some time, but not that much, since I got my X-Pro 2 figuring out what kind of lenses I want to get for my new camera. And this is one of the good things about not having a mount like the Canon EF which has history going back to 1987 where you have numerous generations of lenses from both Canon and many third parties. You can literally spend days if not weeks researching and comparing primes of one specific focal length. ```

```text My current lenses are the 35mm F2, which is the lens I shoot the most with. And then you have the 50mm F2, I was going to sell it, but I have decided to keep it, because it is long enough for when I need a longer lens, while at the same time being wide enough to be useful if I’m going out with just that lens. ```

```text Then I’m going to get the 23mm F2, following the trend of doing for lenses that are not too extreme to be a single trick pony. ```

```text With the 23, 35 and 50 I’ll have everything I need, and all of them are focal lengths I’m very used to. ```

```text Then I’m pretty sure I’m also going to get Samyang 8mm F2.8 fish eye, because I have always wanted one. And while being a manual lens and not that “useful” I always think very distorted images are cool and fun. ```

```text And the last lens I’m going to get is another 35mm, and that is the Mitakon F0.95. One of the lenses I have always wanted is the Leica 50mm Noctilux, it’s indulgent, heavy, cost the same as a fucking car but the images look amazing. The Mitakon isn’t that expensive, but it is a manual lens, and I want it for when I’m shooting in darker situations. My personal experience is that autofocus isn’t that useful in the dark anyways. ```

```text This puts my plans to save for my dream camera(A Leica M6) on hold for a while, but I will on the other hand have all the lenses I need and want. ```

New pages

08.08.2017 02:00

```text I have added some new pages recently: Use and Top 3. ```

```text Use is a page I’m going to keep up to date, it’s a summary of the various items I’m currently using. And Top 3 is my version of Brad and Myke’s Top 5 picks; my all time top 3 pens, inks and notebooks. ```

How I use the three markers in my Bullet Journal

07.08.2017 02:00

```text My current favourite new discovery is the three markers in the Leuchtturm1917 Bullet Journal. I think that just having one is barley more useful than having none, because I usually want to mark and keep track of more than one thing; I do for example use one to keep track of the next free page and another one to show how long I have come in transcribing used pages in my long form writing notebook. ```

```text The way I use the three markers is in my journal. The first one is used to mark the first page with un competed tasks,. The second is used to show the page I was working on last time I closed the book. And the third is used to show the first unused page. ```

```text Having three instead of one makes it possible to navigate it so much faster than what I would have been able to if I only had one marker. I’m not sure if having three instead of two is that different, but two instead of one is a game changer. ```

Three excellent notebooks

31.07.2017 02:00

```text Finding a good notebook to use with your fountain pen can be difficult. ```

```text You can of course go for notebook with thick really observant paper. And I recommend that if you just starting out. But it doesn’t look that good. Here are my three favourites; they all handle fountain pens really well, and have relatively short dry time. ```

```text Travlelers notebook refill(the none tome river variant), Leuchtturm1917 and Rhodia. All of them are excellent. Which one you pick depends on your needs. ```

```text I use at least two of them at a daily basis. My journal is a Travelers Notebook, and I use two Leuchtturm1917 notebooks, one for tasks and one for long form writing. ```

```text The Travelers Notebook is great for a number of reasons, it is really compact and you can customise it after your needs. For example by combining blank and lined paper. And the narrow format makes it very easy to deal with slow drying inks(when you are left handed), it also makes it much easier to fit the notebook in a coat pocket or something than a regular A5 one. ```

```text Leuchtturm1917 has my favourite paper. It dries very fast, and almost never bleed through. And they also provide some nice details, like always at least two bookmarks and make a few special editions. Think of them as Moleskine with good paper. ```

```text Rhodia. I love their Webnotebooks. The book binding is the best feeling thing I have ever felt. I’m pretty sure it isn’t leather, but it feels like it, if not better. And the soft give of it gives it a very luxurious feeling. The dry time is a little bit longer than Leuchtturm1917, but not by far. ```

```text My personal go to is Leuchtturm1917 because of their multiple bookmarks. But I will from time to time get a Webbie for long form writing because they are so cool. And I would probably switch if they started to provide multiple markers. ```

The size of ink bottles.

24.07.2017 02:00

```text Ink is probably the cheapest part of this fountain pen hobby for most of us. ```

```text Comparing prices is difficult and a subject of itself(nicer and more expensive bottles, and huge differences in bottle sizes). But a cheap ink is around $5 and I haven’t found a single bottle priced much higher than $40 (I checked Goulet and JetPens). ```

```text You will spend a lot more on the notebooks you need to fill in order to use the ink, than on the ink itself. ```

```text If you are the kind of person that only uses one colour, and order another identical bottle when you run out, then larger bottles are probably a good thing. But it might not be if you are like me. ```

```text I’m usually sick of a colour, with a very few exceptions, after I have used somewhere between 1/3 and 1/2 of a 50ml bottle. If you have read this site for a while, you probably get that I’m a minimalist. I don’t like having a lot of stuff collecting dust. I complete a notebook before I start the next, and I don’t keep a lot of spares. Because I don’t like it. ```

```text What I want is smaller ink bottles. Because I don’t care if a bottle cost me 5, 10 or 30 dollars; and I don’t care if they are 15ml or 50ml, because I’ll spend a hell of a lot more on notebooks than ink. My desire for using different inks are a lot larger than my need for getting as much ink as possible for my money. ```

```text I write a lot, and I think I can complete somewhere between two and three bottles a year, probably closer to two. Which means I have to put some serious limitations on how much ink I order to avoid being in the “I have more ink than I can use before I die” situation. But I could buy a hell of a lot more, and try a hell of a lot more inks, if the bottle sizes were like a third of what they are today. ```

```text I assume that the reason there is so much ink in each bottle has to do with the fact that the amount of ink isn’t what makes it expensive. I assume they feel like they want to give as much value as possible to their customers. And that’s good, I just want the option to also get it in a smaller bottle. ```

A beginners combo.

17.07.2017 02:00

```text Where do you start? ```

```text This is intended as a starting point after you have played around with a Pilot Metropolitan or a Pilot Pretty or some other kind of cheap fountain pen. ```

```text I suggest the following combo: ```

  • TWSBI Eco
  • Leuchtturm1917 notebook
  • Noodlers Bernanke
  • ```

    ```text Start with either a medium or fine nib. You can always move into broader or finer nibs later. ```

    ```text This combo will give you a very good starting point. The reason I recommend this combination is that you get a lot for your money, enough pen and ink to last you for around a year, and a combo that is easy to start with. A medium TWISBI nib combined with Leuchtturm1917 and Noodlers Bernanke is something I know has a short dry time. ```

    ```text Dry time isn’t that important. But I think it is good when you start, because it makes easier to learn how to deal with fountain pens. Especially important if you are a lefty. ```

    ```text The ECO is without doubt one one my favourite pens, it is one of the three pens in my daily carry, and the other two is both priced at around $150(Lamy 2000 and Pilot Vanishing point). ```

    A Rhodia re-visit.

    10.07.2017 02:00

    ```text It only took me a little bit over four years, but I’ve given Rhodia another shot. I tested them out back when I was too shy to bring fountain pens with me outside my flat. So my “outside” pen was my first Retro 51. And I thought the dry time with that pen on the Rhodia pads was horrible. It felt like I could take a cigarette break between each page. ```

    ```text But in retrospect, it wasn’t that bad compared to something like for example tomoe river. So, I ordered a dot grid orange Rhodia Webnotebook from JetPens. This got to be the coolest notebook I have ever owned. The material of the cover feels almost like a leather bound book; soft and a little bit of friction. ```

    ```text The paper in this one is the 90g version. I have nothing bad to say about it. It is more bleed resistant than my Leuchtturm1917 notebooks, but also a little bit longer dry time. But I don’t think you will notice much of a difference, unless you are really sensitive to dry time. Switching to a finer nib or a faster drying ink would probably do more for your dry time. ```

    ```text This notebook is so cool, that I might consider using them as my “writing” notebook, instead of a Leuchtturm1917, but there is one major stopping point: I have grown to really love having multiple markers. ```

    ```text I would most defininently go for “webbies” if you the combination of great paper and the best looking and best feeling cover. ```

    X-Pro 2

    06.07.2017 02:00

    ```text I have been shooting with the X-Pro 2 for a while now, and I think it is the perfect camera for me. But there are of course a few things I wish were different. ```

    ```text First, I wish the exposure compensation dial had a press to unlock button like the shutter speed.button has, because I adjust it by mistake way too often. ```

    ```text Second, it would have been awesome with a physical dial to adjust the drive mode (single, bracketing, burst etc) to make it faster to change between shooting the different modes. I personally often switch between burst and single. ```

    ```text Third, I wish the menu’s was more like the play / display images function. Never show it in the view finder and always on the screen. Because I always have the screen off unless when I chose to use it, to save battery. ```

    ```text ]]> ```

    X-Pro 2

    06.07.2017 02:00

    ```text There are no technical reason for shooting in manual in most situations these days. But I love shooting with mechanical analog cameras, and I also enjoy shooting in full manual on other cameras that are designed to do so. ```

    ```text The Fuji X-Pro 2 is without doubt a very good option for this. ```

    ```text I think it is a healthy training exercise for photographers to shoot manually from time to time, in order to really understand how the different parameters work. ```

    ```text The experience of shooting in full manual mode on a DSLR like my Canon 650D was a horrible experience, because you don’t have a histogram in the viewfinder and because you don’t have physical controls and because there are no tools to help you focus. It takes forever and isn’t fun. ```

    ```text Doing it with the X-Pro is fun. Just turn on the histogram, twist the ISO, Shutter and Aperture unit the histogram give you the proper feedback, and then you just focus and shoot. ```

    ```text The reason it is so much better, in my opinion is that you can adjust all of it without looking away from the view finder, and because Fuji cameras give you zooms into the focus point makes it very easy to focus correctly. ```

    ```text Another fun way to expose, is to use the Sunny 16 sytstem. ```