Analog Photography

14.08.2017 02:00

```text Let me preface what I am about to say by defining what I mean by analog photography. Because analog cameras comes in many shapes and forms. Everything from point and shoot, to very advanced SLR models to the ones that might have one but don’t require a battery. ```

```text What I am talking about here is: ```

  • A system camera: you can change the lenses and set settings like shutter speed and aperture manually.
  • It is mechanical. This means that the only thing that require a battery (if there is one) is the light meter. Everything else works fine without a battery.
  • There are no “auto” modes.
  • ```

    ```text There are many reasons to why I love analog photography: focus, simplicity and relatively cheap gear. I think digital SLR or digital range finders are the best place to start learning because you can shoot so much, without costing you that much money. You are set if you get a crop sensor camera, a 35mm lens, some batteries and SD cards. And the only cost moving forward after that and a Lightroom license is electricity and external hard drives if you fill up your computer. While analog have a real cost connected to it. Around $10 USD per roll of film, and usually 2-3x the cost of a roll to develop it; if you dont do so yourself. ```

    ```text My current camera is a silver Nikon FM that I inherited, it came with a 50mm f/1.8, and I also bought a used 24mm f/2.8. I mostly use the 50 because it is my focal length, and it is so much lighter. ```

    ```text If I go out with my FM to shoot, I usually just bring a few spare rolls of films. And that’s it. I have used it for around a year, and the battery is still going strong. What would be the result if the battery died while traveling or being a place I could not get a replacement? Well, I’d just use the f/16 Sunny method (Sunny day, 1/100, f/16, ISO 100) . ```

    ```text My X-Pro 2 is a little bit more of a drag to get it all sorted. I usually havet o check how much room I have left on my cards. Then I usually bring at least one spare battery. ```

    ```text You can probably get set up with a excellent analog SLR + a really good lens for less than the price of a entry level DSLR kit. And if you are willing to pay a couple of thousands of USD, you could get the camera I really want: a Leica M6. ```

    ```text The most important thing I have gotten from shooting film for around a year now is a much better understanding of focusing, exposure and speed / ISO. ```

    ```text When you shoot digital, you are used to being able to change the ISO as you please. This is not the case for analog. Instead of having a sensor, you have a roll of film. This means that you need to figure out what is the best compromise for the kind of shooting your are doing the next X. In other words: until you have shot 24 or 36 shots. ```

    ```text You can push or pull (shoot at a higher or lower ISO than it is rated as) but you need to do so for the whole roll. ```

    ```text My personal preference is to shoot 400 films. I prefer Fuji Superia for colour and Ilford HP5 for black and white. Sunny day: ISO 400, and I usually push to 800 in general or 1600 if it is really dark. ```

    ```text Again. You can’t switch it up in the middle of a roll. ```

    ```text The first thing you learn when you start shooting analog, with the kind of cameras I like is how focusing really work. I kind of knew how it worked. The basic idea is that you twist the focus ring until what you want to have in focus are in focus. You can also do so by using a distance scale on many older lenses (and Leica lenses). The F-number shows you what will be a focus in terms of meters / feet with your current focus point. ```

    ```text The second thing I got into my fingers is how different exposure settings impact each other. For example: with this film I can’t shoot here, because it is too dark. Or I can’t go down to F2 here, because my camera don’t go above 1/1000th of a second, and I use a ISO 100 film. Or I either have to go for a very slow shutter speed (potential shake / blur) or I need to go for really shallow depth of field). ```

    ```text You have all the same problems wit ha DSLR, but you almost always have extreme shutter speed and ISO options that you can get a compromised version of what you thought you wanted. ```

    ```text If you think it is a hassle to adjust all of it yourself, you are kind of right. But it is much easier when you have physical dials for everything. You usually just pick “I want this shutter speed” or “I want this f-stop” and adjust accordingly. And it is much easier to focus manually on cameras that are made for it. SLR’s often have a micro prism and range finders are rangefinders. Both are based around the principle where you only need to make sure that the stuff in the “focus area” line up. ```

    What would a true digital Leica M look like

    12.08.2017 02:00

    ```text If one would pick the three most influential camera’s in history, I would say the Leica M3, then the Nikon F4 and last the iPhone. The reason is that the M3 basically invented 35mm photography and how cameras looked and worked up until the SLR; the F4 is the prototype for how SLR’s looked and worked from it was introduced up until today. And nobody thought of phone photography as anything but a gimmick before the iPhone; not the first one though. Probably the 4S? ```

    ```text Anyways. ```

    ```text If you look at the Leica M series from the M3 up to the M6, you see a camera that has just what you need to create. Combined with build quality that makes it possible for cameras made in the 1950’s through the 1990’s to still function today. The reason is that Leica continues to service them, and all of their modern M mount lenses are still compatible and neither the batteries nor the film is proprietary. ```

    ```text There have been a few attempts at making digital Leica M’s- But I’m not convinced that we have seen the first true Leica M. There are a number of reasons for this. Most of all because they are too much like a digital camera and not enough like a true M. ```

    ```text If you pay $8000 for a camera, then you either expect the best technology on the market or something that is built to last. All analog Leica M’s were expensive new. But that is fine if you can use it for over 60 years when its maintained properly. ```

    ```text I think that a Leica M digital camera should look and work like a M6, except for the thing that advances the film and the thing you use to rewind it. Those can we just get rid off. But the rest should be the same. ```

    ```text A ISO dial. ```

    ```text A shutter speed dial ```

    ```text You turn it on or off with the shutter speed dial. ```

    ```text And no screen or additional buttons. ```

    ```text There should be a “analog” counter like you have on a M6; but it should show how many more pictures there are room for on the SD. And it should use standard batteries you can get in any photo store. ```

    ```text The view finder should not require any form for batteries, and the only parts that should use battery power is the sensor (when its in use), the light meeter and the counter thing I mentioned above. ```

    ```text And of course no auto shit; we are talking about a Leica M after all. ```

    ```text But. If this is a camera that is going to be useful in 20 years, then they need to be clever regarding the sensor. A 24MP Full frame sensor is probably good enough for the nest 5-10 years for most people. But I still think they should be upgradable. Send it in to Leica to get the latest generation “M” sensor in it. Just like a M3 from 1954 can use the latest in 35mm film technology. ```

    ```text Let Leica be Leica. ```

    X-Pro 2

    10.08.2017 02:00

    ```text I have spent some time, but not that much, since I got my X-Pro 2 figuring out what kind of lenses I want to get for my new camera. And this is one of the good things about not having a mount like the Canon EF which has history going back to 1987 where you have numerous generations of lenses from both Canon and many third parties. You can literally spend days if not weeks researching and comparing primes of one specific focal length. ```

    ```text My current lenses are the 35mm F2, which is the lens I shoot the most with. And then you have the 50mm F2, I was going to sell it, but I have decided to keep it, because it is long enough for when I need a longer lens, while at the same time being wide enough to be useful if I’m going out with just that lens. ```

    ```text Then I’m going to get the 23mm F2, following the trend of doing for lenses that are not too extreme to be a single trick pony. ```

    ```text With the 23, 35 and 50 I’ll have everything I need, and all of them are focal lengths I’m very used to. ```

    ```text Then I’m pretty sure I’m also going to get Samyang 8mm F2.8 fish eye, because I have always wanted one. And while being a manual lens and not that “useful” I always think very distorted images are cool and fun. ```

    ```text And the last lens I’m going to get is another 35mm, and that is the Mitakon F0.95. One of the lenses I have always wanted is the Leica 50mm Noctilux, it’s indulgent, heavy, cost the same as a fucking car but the images look amazing. The Mitakon isn’t that expensive, but it is a manual lens, and I want it for when I’m shooting in darker situations. My personal experience is that autofocus isn’t that useful in the dark anyways. ```

    ```text This puts my plans to save for my dream camera(A Leica M6) on hold for a while, but I will on the other hand have all the lenses I need and want. ```

    X-Pro 2

    06.07.2017 02:00

    ```text I have been shooting with the X-Pro 2 for a while now, and I think it is the perfect camera for me. But there are of course a few things I wish were different. ```

    ```text First, I wish the exposure compensation dial had a press to unlock button like the shutter speed.button has, because I adjust it by mistake way too often. ```

    ```text Second, it would have been awesome with a physical dial to adjust the drive mode (single, bracketing, burst etc) to make it faster to change between shooting the different modes. I personally often switch between burst and single. ```

    ```text Third, I wish the menu’s was more like the play / display images function. Never show it in the view finder and always on the screen. Because I always have the screen off unless when I chose to use it, to save battery. ```

    ```text ]]> ```

    X-Pro 2

    06.07.2017 02:00

    ```text There are no technical reason for shooting in manual in most situations these days. But I love shooting with mechanical analog cameras, and I also enjoy shooting in full manual on other cameras that are designed to do so. ```

    ```text The Fuji X-Pro 2 is without doubt a very good option for this. ```

    ```text I think it is a healthy training exercise for photographers to shoot manually from time to time, in order to really understand how the different parameters work. ```

    ```text The experience of shooting in full manual mode on a DSLR like my Canon 650D was a horrible experience, because you don’t have a histogram in the viewfinder and because you don’t have physical controls and because there are no tools to help you focus. It takes forever and isn’t fun. ```

    ```text Doing it with the X-Pro is fun. Just turn on the histogram, twist the ISO, Shutter and Aperture unit the histogram give you the proper feedback, and then you just focus and shoot. ```

    ```text The reason it is so much better, in my opinion is that you can adjust all of it without looking away from the view finder, and because Fuji cameras give you zooms into the focus point makes it very easy to focus correctly. ```

    ```text Another fun way to expose, is to use the Sunny 16 sytstem. ```


    28.06.2017 02:00

    ```text I got my Canon EOS 650D a little bit over four years ago. I think it was during easter. The funny thing is that it was during easter it started to “act up”. The screen started to black out for hours at a time. The camera still worked, but I didn’t really trust it after that. The camera was almost a year old when I got it. So the majority of the pictures I’ve taken have taken have been with either the X100t or with a sensor that is five years old. ```

    ```text My plan was to get a 5D, when my 650D died. But I changed my mind. The reason is that I fell in love with Fuji from my experience shooting with the X100t and dedicated dials shooting with my Analog Nikon FM. ```

    ```text I still think the X100t is a great camera, but the focal length never felt “right” for me. I feel much more at home using something close to a 50mm. equivalent . But what I got out of my experience with the x100, is that I love how close to “ready” Fuji’s raw files are. And how much more fun it is to use their cameras. ```

    ```text So I got a black Fujifilm X-Pro 2, with the 35mm f2 lens, and I got a 50mm f2 lens with it for free. This is the perfect camera for me, and I love everything about it; except for the battery life. ```

    ```text The body is metal, and you can feel it. Not from the weight. But rather from how solid everything feels. Great build quality. And the experience shooting with the camera is great. You get what makes it fun to shoot with a mechanical analog camera, combined with the amazing image quality of modern digital photography. ```

    ```text When I look at the images I got out of this camera. The increased number of pixels and the vastly improved dynamic range. The jump feels similar to the one I did when I jumped from point and shoots to DSLR’s. ```

    ```text ]]> ```

    The X-Pro2 battery life.

    28.06.2017 02:00

    ```text I’m of the opinion that you should get through a day of being a tourist with a single battery in a camera. This wasn’t really a big problem with DSLR’s because my experience is that most of them will last you at least a weekend on a single charge. And I think the oldest of my Canon EOS 650D batteries still lasted me a day at the end. ```

    ```text I also think that the out of the box experience should last you a day. Without digging through menu’s etc. Mirrorless systems will probably get there some day. But that day are probably at least a generation away. ```

    ```text My experience shooting with my X-Pro 2 the first two days I had it was that I’d get around two hours out of a charge. ```

    ```text Then I decided to play with the settings. I’m not going to change the performance settings because I like the faster autofocus and higher frame rate. But I decided to enable all the auto sleep features, and set them as aggressive as possible(sleep after 15 seconds of inactivity), and only use the camera with viewfinder + eye sensor, instead of LCD and viewfinder. ```

    ```text The change? Huge. ```

    ```text I have used to camera on all my walks with my dog today, and I have also shot a little bit at home. And I have around 50% left of the battery. This would have been well into the second charge with the original settings. ```

    ```text This means that I’m not in that much of a hurry to get a second battery. And it also means that I don’t need to get that many extra batteries and charging systems for when I bring the camera on trips. ```

    ```text ]]> ```

    My bag of stuff.

    17.06.2017 02:00

    ```text I have this cloth bag that I put all the “stuff” I need on a daily basis. Everything from adapters, to cables and so on. There is nothing spacial about the bag itself, I think its the one I got with my H7 headphones. The goal of the bag is that I have everything I need in it, so that I don’t have to thing about it more than necessary(re-charging batteries, and replacing stuff as needed). ```

  • 1x spare battery for my H7’s
  • 1x spare battery for my Fujifilm X100t
  • 2x 16gb SD cards (because I broke my 64GB spare)
  • 1x spare Illford HP5+ 35mm film
  • 1 small and compact battery bank, just enough juice to charge my iPhone once.
  • 1x USB-C(male) to USB-C (female) adapter
  • 1x USB-A Nintendo 3DS proprietary charger cable.
  • 1x USB-A Micro USB cable
  • Mini-jack male to male cable. For when I have no battery left on my H7’s.
  • USB-A Apple Watch Charger
  • USB-A Lightning Cable
  • USB-C Lightning Cable
  • USB-C Cable (male to male)
  • USB-C Lightning cable.
  • 1x Satechi Slim Type-C MultiPort Adapter 4K
  • ```

    ```text I’m pretty happy with everything as of now. The only thing I want to change is the Satechi thing, I want to replace it with a single purpose USB-C to HDMI adapter. Other than that, happy as a clam. ```

    ```text And I do of course have a Apple USB-C Power bricks more or less everywhere; one in my bag, one at my desk at home, one at my desk at work and one at my new house. ```

    ```text ]]> ```

    On giving Two Factor Authentication another go.

    08.06.2017 02:00

    ```text We can all agree that two factor authentication is a good idea, and that it in general improves security a great deal. But it also needs to be easy enough in order to ensure that people adopt it. ```

    ```text I tired adopting to it two years or go using Authy, but I ended up going back to “one factor authentication” because it was too much of a hassle to deal with. ```

    ```text Then I decided to finally get started and try it again a few days ago. This time I decided to try 1Passwords solution. I know it is probably not the best idea to have passwords, emergency two factor codes and the two factor codes in the same place, but my biggest worry isn’t if someone gets access to my 1Password database (then I’m totally screwed no matter what), it is if someone gets access to a password. ```

    ```text As stated above, the 1Password solution might not be the most secure, but having access to copying the codes both on my iPhone and my MacBook is convenient enough for me to actually use it. ```

    ```text My approach to security have never been about finding the perfect most secure solution, but rather to slowly becoming more secure every single month. ```

    ```text ]]> ```

    On updating passwords

    22.03.2017 01:00

    ```text I assume that you are doing the only sensible thing and are using unique and complex passwords everywhere, and have a good application to manage it like for example 1Password or LastPass(they are the only ones I recommend). ```

    ```text I’m a big fan of updating passwords on a schedule. And I’m also a fan of doing it maybe once or twice a week with a cap on how many passwords you update. 1Password has a brilliant audit section that show you all the passwords you should update. I first update anything in the Watchtower section, then duplicate and then old, starting with the oldest. But I do not do all of them at once. I do it once or twice a week and never more then 10 passwords per day. The reason is that the passwords will turn up again at the same pace as you change them. This means that if I take the first Monday of the month and change everything that needs to be changed, then I’ll end up with the same backlogs six months from that Monday. ```

    ```text If you instead change up to 10 passwords on every Monday and Friday, then you will never end up with more than 20 passwords that needs updating; except for Watchtower and duplicates. ```

    ```text Doing all of it today, will only solve parts of the problem. ```

    ```text ]]> ```