First day back at work. This might be the time to get back into standing at my desk, because it is more comfortable to stand than to sit.
Hugo is pretty awesome. I really love that I don’t have to make up any weird hacks to make scheduling work.
The single thing I hate reading in support communication (especially if it’s a open source project) the most: read the documentation.
They are finally supported now.
Limiting the number of pens I have in rotation
I think there is a maximum number of pens I can keep in rotation. For me is it around five. Because there is only so many pens you can write with regularly before you have to spend a lot of time making sure they don’t dry up.
When I got my Metal Falcon I decided to empty, clean and stop having my two Pilot Metropolitans as a part of my daily carry. This is kind of weird, because up to this point all of the pens I enjoy using have been a part of my rotation. But the truth is that I enjoy all the other pens in my rotation a lot more. And seven pens is a little bit too much.
What makes a good “street” lens
I don’t think there are much “right” and “wrong” when it comes to focal lengths for shooting street. Because it all depends on your personal taste and what kind of pictures you want make.
But the standard focal lengths for street are (on a 35mm / full frame) 28mm, 35mm and 50mm. And something close to a 85mm is popular for street portraits.
The creepiness is relative to the focal length. And I personally think that zoom lenses with a very long range is kind of “not cool”. But I don’t think something like a 10-24 or a 24-70 is a problem from a creepiness perspective.
But there are few things I think is important when you are picking a lens to use in street photography. Don’t get me wrong, you can use anything.
I would get a small and light prime, with fast auto focus. Because stuff happens fast, and lenses that use a long time to focus or fiddle with zooming is the kind of thing that could cause you to loose a lot of shots.
You want fast auto focus, because good pictures come and go faster than you can shoot most of the time. The lens should be light and small because it is a pain in the ass to walk around with a huge lens for a long periods, and people notice huge lenses way more than a small prime.
A manual lens with a focus scale is also a good option. This means a lens where you see meters and feet on the focusing ring. When I do street shooting with my Nikon FM, I usually focus to a certain distance and work accordingly. Then you only walk around and change the shutter speed.
My personal preference on Fuji systems is to use their line of F2 lenses. Because they are small, great quality and have fast auto focus. I usually set them to F8, when there is enough light, and then step down whole steps until I have a combo that works.
The slowest shutter speed you can use, depends on many different things. It depends on if you have any kind of image stabilisation in your camera or lens. And it depends on how steady your hands are. But also on the camera. For example, analog or up to around 16 mega pixels, no problem using a 1/60th of a second. But I try to not go under 1/100th on my X-Pro 2 with a 24MP sensor, because I takes way less to have a blurry picture.
More pixels aren’t always better.
Stephen Fry has cancer. This hurts.